To Ambeli tis Marias

In the lanes below Pyrgos's hilltop, Maria's family courtyard restaurant sits inside their own basket-vine plot: white eggplant from Santorini soil, slow lamb with chloro cheese, katsouni cucumber salads, and their unlabelled assyrtiko poured from steel. No caldera view — which is exactly why dinner here costs half of Oia and tastes better. Winter closure is long (November through March) and the courtyard's the whole event, so check the calendar and the wind.