Riad Table des Épices

Climb three flights above the spice souk and the medina's volume drops to a hum. The kitchen does the classics with care — pigeon pastilla with proper cinnamon-sugar crackle, a seven-vegetable couscous on Fridays — under lanterns as the Koutoubia lights up. Finding the door in the derb takes faith and a dropped pin; the staff will send someone to fetch you if you call, and you should.