Marigny Gumbo House

Half the horn section was at the counter. Correct.

Good

A roux the color of scorched mahogany, red beans because it was Monday, and trombone players ordering between sets two blocks off Frenchmen — the whole city in one shotgun room.

Bad

The kitchen closes at 9pm sharp while the street outside is just tuning up, and the room runs hot enough that the sweet tea is load-bearing.

Verdict

Eat here early, then walk to the music with the right foundation; night owls who dine at ten will find the lights off and deserve the lesson.